Here is something you probably won’t know: Ulysse Nardin is one of the significant trailblazers of the market. You’d most likely figure the assembling does extraordinary marine chronometers or entertaining sensual watches. Be that as it may, there is considerably more to find in the R&D office of Ulysse Nardin: the utilization of silicon for an escapement wheel for the absolute first time, the first trial of a precious stone equilibrium spring or the first production to fit a watch with a jewel escapement. This examination group is, without a doubt, gainful – and they did again a year ago while showing us the principal model of a spic and span consistent escapement, the Ulysse Anchor Escapement . As guaranteed, here is the first commercialized watch to highlight this advancement. Make proper acquaintance with the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon.
If you venture back and take a gander at the previous 15 years, you’ll see that quite possibly the most creative makes had without a doubt been Ulysse Nardin. Why? First and positively fundamental of the advancements credited to UN: the utilization for the absolute first time in 2001 of silicon in a watch – into the development of the Freak , a stunning watch for a few reasons, as the plan was absolutely uncommon, the display too (the carrousel tourbillon development is utilized to demonstrate the time) yet chiefly as a result of the presentation of a material that was, around then, a distinct advantage. UN included a silicon escapement wheel into the Freak, a material that the (nearly) whole industry felt like an adversary, something that didn’t have a place with the universe of very good quality watchmaking.
However, on the off chance that you take a gander at the new improvements of the watchmaking business, you will surely see that numerous brands are currently depending on silicon to make balance wheels, hair-springs, escapement wheels or bed forks. Practically the whole creation of Omega is currently fitted with such components. Same goes for Breguet, Blancpain or Rolex (in a portion of the developments). Indeed, even moderate brands, for example, Patek Philippe tested it. Saying that silicon is now common and that it very well may be the standard for top of the line watches in the following decade is somewhat of a misrepresentation of the truth. That’s not a pattern any longer. Ulysse Nardin was a distinct advantage and set new rules.
Let’s move directly to 2012 and to another production: Girard-Perregaux and its Constant Escapement Watch – for which we broke the story . The appearance of silicon opened new points of view to watchmakers as a result of the path not to machine a material any longer but rather to develop it. Silicon in fact can be framed and developed without any preparation and synthetically molded to for all intents and purposes any structures, to extremely exact and little measurements. Girard-Perregaux was the first to make an absolutely new escapement, with steady power properties in its Constant Escapement watch . Ulysse Nardin could well be the first to execute this innovation in a watch that could be sold – and not simply being a commercialized model. We showed you the model a year ago , here is presently the last release of the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon.
How does the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon works?
Like Girard-Perregaux’s Constant Escapement, the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Escapement (that we can discover in the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon) is made of silicon and depends on the adaptable properties of this material. Why utilizing silicon? It is hard, light, not delicate to attraction (subsequently hostile to attractive), and it doesn’t need any grease. Particularly in the controlling organ the requirement for these properties is the most noteworthy, and subsequently silicon is being principally utilized for parts of the escapement. Also, perhaps the main factor is that silicon can be delivered to an outrageous exactness, making it truly qualified for the escapement components.
While the customary guideline of the Swiss switch escapement utilizes an equilibrium wheel, an escapement haggle switch with beds, the Anchor Escapement of the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon features a round silicon outline in which the bed arms are suspended by two clasped sharp edges that are – bended under strain – one opposite to the next. It depends on the actual properties of edge springs to twist along one hub, while remaining totally inflexible along other hub. This repeats the motor capacity of a pivot.
While the GP Constant Escapement comprises a cutting edge that is fitted in a fairly enormous system that curves across the equilibrium and getaway wheel – subsequently requiring a watch grew completely around this escapement module – Ulysse Nardin’s answer depends on edges that are important for a compact edge that is fitted on top of the equilibrium wheel. Indeed, it would seem that the Anchor Escapement can supplant a common Swiss switch escapement without emotional changes to the remainder of the development, and that makes it a lot simpler in application, even in previously existing watches.
The drive, given at every semi-wavering of the equilibrium, sends its energy to the sharp edges, which snaps starting with one stable state then onto the next, especially like a snap fastener. The bed arms, here without a bed staff, in this way rotate from one side to another without age rubbing. Indeed, when it gets back to its unique position, it offers back its put away energy with basically no misfortune, making a perhaps steady power on the escapement (and in this way meaning a (practically) consistent pace of the watch over the full scope of the influence save). To wrap things up, this development needs no extension for the bed switch, takes into account a slimmer movement.
The arrangement made by Ulysse Nardin could well be the one to get freed of more than 100 years of traditional Swiss Lever escapement – a similar that we can discover in our fabulous father’s pocket watch or in your advanced Rolex Submariner. Development isn’t in every case great and the utilization of a customary escapement in looks for a century can be clarified by its unwavering quality, its ability to be handily changed and by its fairly great accuracy. Changing this system is a test however it appears to be that Ulysse Nardin opened (once more) the ways to new points of view with a compact component and that doesn’t need a completely adjusted watch and movement.
The Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon
As imaginative the Anchor Tourbillon can be, you’ll be amazed to see that Ulysse Nardin didn’t pick a similar stunning methodology than with the Freak but rather they decided to keep it as close as conceivable to their conventional very good quality watchmaking. Each angle from the round and exquisite case, the blued hands, the polish dial, the old fashioned numerals or the development formed like a marine chronometer are reminiscent of conventional horology and along these lines making a deliberate gigantic difference with the imaginative escapement module – such a pre-response to the future comments that could say “ok, we have an advancement, we eliminated the customary swiss switch escapement however we’re making classical very good quality watchmaking”.
The Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon has basic capacities: hours, minutes, little second (inside the 1-minute tourbillon) and force save (that is demonstrated around the aperture of the tourbillon). The thought with this first watch highlighting the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Escapement was to altogether zero in on the advancement. Perhaps we’ll see more capacities in the following versions or despite what might be expected, we could see this component adjusted to a traditional watch without tourbillon. Notwithstanding, for the occasion, the fact isn’t here. This Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon is a first exhibit to show what UN can do.
This watch includes a rich and straightforward round case, estimating 44mm and formed like the remainder of the Classico assortment, as for instance the Ulysse Nardin Stranger . It comes with a full mirror cleaning. This elegance can likewise be felt on the dial. Ulysse Nardin additionally decided to be customary with a white fabulous feu veneer dial, thermally blued hands and old numerals for both the hour and moment tracks.
When turning around the watch, let us have two comments, the first unsettling the amazing completion and the subsequent one concerning (once more) the colossal differentiation between the polish and elegance of the shapes and the inventive soul. The development of the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon feels like an old marine chronometer, with huge and bended scaffolds and colossal wheels. Once more, it appears to be that Ulysse Nardin needs to show that its new Anchor Escapement isn’t problematic to its legacy. It tends to be applied on the most customary development conceivable and not just into idea watches.
This development is done with cleaned slanted points, fine roundabout graining on the primary plate, Geneva waves on the scaffolds and an engraved barrel. We can even locate some inward points on the scaffold that holds the rear of the tourbillon – and those are completes that must be finished by hand. This enormous development includes a one-minute tourbillon that beats at moderate 18.000 vph. It brags 8 days power hold, because of a twofold barrel.
This new Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon is genuinely fascinating for a few reasons. To start with, it is by all accounts one of the main endeavors to dispose of the Swiss switch escapement that could be actualized for a bigger scope. At that point, it brings a consistent power instrument that is sufficiently compact to be applied in typical watches and not just in idea watches – something that Ulysse Nardin really needs to exhibit with an exceptionally traditional execution of the case, the dial or the development. Along these lines it makes the ways for a few new advancements implying that we could see more watches with the anchor escapement soon – with or without tourbillon. The strength of this development could well be its adaptability.
Now comes the topic of the unwavering quality and of the exactness. We realize that these types of escapements are amazingly difficult to change (predominantly in light of the fact that customary apparatuses can’t be utilized) and accomplishing a chronometer rating is conceivably a bad dream for watchmakers. We likewise realize that the ‘real steady force‘ is an appropriate test to accomplish and a large number of the past arrangements fizzled. For these two inquiries, we don’t have yet the answer and just a drawn out audit could allow us to have all the appropriate response’s we require to tell if this is actually the finish of conventional watchmaking.
Final question: the cost. Glance back at the article, audit the highlights, the developments, the way that it’s a very limited release, the 18k white or 18k rose gold case, the polish dial… You could without much of a stretch anticipate 150.000 + for an illustration of this watch. For probably the first time, we need to concede that the retail cost chose by UN is advocated, as it will be 84.000 Swiss Francs (for the 18 pieces in rose gold) and 88,400 Swiss Francs (for the 18 pieces in white gold). We know heaps of basic tourbillon watches valued path over that. Conveyances will begin this May 2015.
More info: www.ulysse-nardin.com