There a couple of watches that are as practical as a world timer , a watch ready to give you in a solitary glance at the dial the hour of the relative multitude of principle urban areas around the planet (and your neighborhood time as well). In a world of developing globalization, these watches are currently seen as incredibly valuable – yet this was not the situation when concocted. This complication is credited to the popular watchmaker Louis Cottier with the exceptionally collectible Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 , a delight that Andersen Geneva commemorates with its latest special version, the Tempus Terrae.
Let’s be clear with you, the Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae is a rich piece of horology. At the point when we originally saw it during Baselworld 2015, we just felt in adoration with this watch – and particularly our manager in-boss Frank, known to have a thing for World-Timer watches. The excellence of the Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae comes from its remarkable shape, its motor turned dial and its complication. In the event that you’re into vintage watches and uncommon cases, the Tempus Terrae may sound recognizable to you – and you’d be all in all correct to feel like a ‘deja-vu‘. Indeed, with this watch, Andersen Geneve (that is known for his own world timers) commemorates the main World Time watch with two crowns created by Louis Cottier during the 1950s – to be exact, the Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 – and what a tribute they created.
The story behind Andersen Geneve
Svend Andersen – individual from the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants) since 1985 – dispatched his own workshop in the last part of the 70’s in the wake of having gone through 9 years at Patek Philippe in their Atelier des Grandes Complications. He began his vocation as free watchmaker by first assembling cases for gatherers. He at that point agreed by creating bespoke watches (called ‘pièce unique‘). From that point forward, Andersen Geneve has been creating complicated watches like yearly schedules, unending schedules, bouncing hour schedules. His show-stopper was the common interminable schedule, a watch that accommodates a characteristic of the Gregorian Calendar: the years 2100, 2200 and 2300 are not jump years. In these years normal interminable schedules require a manual amendment, for example it needn’t bother with an additional day in February. The complication created by Andersen Geneve will show the date without change each year up to and past 2400.
While working at Patek Philippe in the mid 1970s Svend Andersen got the opportunity to deal with the world time complication created by the Geneva-based watchmaker Louis Cottier. In commemoration to Louis Cottier’s first worldtime wristwatch, Andersen Geneve planned its first World Time watch in 1989. It was an incredible achievement and the watches were conveyed to watch gatherers in 1990. From that point forward Andersen Geneve has been creating distinctive arrangement of World Time watches.
Louis Cottier’s World Time complication and the staggering Patek 2523
Back in the last part of the 1930s, Louis Cottier, a popular watchmaker, built up an inconspicuous complication ready to show the specific season of the fundamental urban communities all around the planet in a solitary dial: the world timer. It was first seen in 1937 on a (conceivably) extraordinary piece by Patek Philippe, the ref. 515, a rectangular watch (photograph here ). In those days, this watch and the not very many releases that follow were fitted with just one crown, that both change the neighborhood time (in the middle piece of the dial) and the 24-hour ring. The common purpose of these early world timer watches are the urban communities imprinted on a fixed ring or straightforwardly engraved on a huge bezel, outside the dial – the ring highlighting the diverse time regions can’t be repositioned by the wearer.
This prompts the last age of the world timers created by Cottier for Patek Philippe, the famous reference 2523 with two crowns presented in 1953, a watch that is currently seen as the most develop and developed one since it permits the wearer to change the area by turning a separated crown. This 35.5mm watch had an extraordinary and special element: two crowns situated on the two sides of the watch – one (at 3) to set the time and the hour plate and the subsequent one (at 9) to set the city-ring. The watches were fitted with a wide range of sorts of dial focuses, including motor turned gold, cloisonné enameled circles portraying guides or monochrome clear blue ( like the one sold as of late by Christie’s at the Patek 175th sale and that reached CHF 2,225,000 ).
When you take a gander at this Patek/Cottier Ref. 2523, the most appealing part are certainly the carries, with their faceted shape. They are a genuine work of art of plan, with 3 aspects: top, side and a third one slanted at 45 degrees – in addition to a decent cleaned sloped point on the outer side. Those sharp hauls might be wonderful, they were odd during the 1950s setting, where the greater part of the watches were coming with roundish carries and cases. This point isn’t the one in particular that is currently amazingly appealing – the dials, the crowns, the extraordinariness (creation is assessed at 7 to 10 pieces) are clarifying its new achievement. Be that as it may, this was not the situation during the 1950s, as this watch was appropriately seen as an odd duck. For Christie’s, the Ref. 2523 was ‘considered an odd contraption at that point, the world timer was an unusual bird and individuals didn’t have the foggiest idea what to think about it. The little painted city circle addressing 24 time regions was simply excessively little and difficult to peruse. Additionally, there was a peculiar crown at 9 o’clock to acclimate to times in various cities.‘ It’s intriguing to perceive how a watch that neglected to be a triumph – and with a particularly low creation level – would now be able to be viewed as a symbol, a sacred goal for gatherers that broke several times the 2 millions barrier.
Note: Louis Cottier not just worked on the world timer complication with Patek Philippe. He likewise made a model of a mechanical watch with advanced presentation called Cobra. This never-created watch was the motivation for the URWERK UR-CC1 King Cobra – a story that we clarified here .
The Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae
As a previous worker of Patek Philippe and an expert of the world timer complication, we’re not amazed to see Andersen Geneve paying recognition for crafted by Louis Cottier and to the Patek Philippe Ref. 2523. The watch they created is neither a basic reissue nor a duplicate. It’s unmistakably a watch to commemorate the soul of the primary world-timers, a watch that is motivated by its seniors. We discovered here a more present day approach in the finishings, the materials utilized, the tones or the development. In any case, the general inclination is completely respected.
Let’s first investigate the case. It estimates 39mm x 9mm and is accessible in 18k yellow gold, 18k red gold or 18k white gold. It is plainly a little and thin watch – particularly thinking about the world-timer complication. That said, the Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae is resolutely inspired by the Ref. 2523, with a somewhat huge and level bezel and level casebands. The central matter of likeness are the hauls, that are utilizing the very faceted shape that gave so much appeal to the vintage Patek. As enormous enthusiasts of this vintage magnificence, we can disclose to you that finding back those drags in an advanced piece is a genuine joy, both for our eyes and for what they address – at times a little detail can have a gigantic effect. The completion is extraordinary however as the Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae is completely reflect cleaned while the 2523 was rotating with cleaned and brushed surfaces. Be that as it may, this doesn’t change anything to the general nature of the execution.
We discovered back the twin-crowns. Notwithstanding, on the Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae, they are both situated on the correct side of the case. One of the crowns is utilized to set the time, to set the 24-hour plate and to wind the movement and the other one is utilized to set the city-circle autonomously (which crown works does what, is still in question). In this manner, you can without much of a stretch read your neighborhood time with the hands – on the focal piece of the dial – and read the time altogether the significant urban communities around the planet on the World Time zone scale, because of the rotating ring showing 24 hours’ time regions with day/night tinge in dim blue and brilliant white.
Moving to the dial, we can see the classical design of a world timer. The fairly short hands are made of gold and molded like A – the logo of Andersen Geneve. The focal piece of the dial is made of blue gold and afterward hand-guilloché (motor turned) – two examples are available, tapisserie or scale. Blue gold is a restrictive material made by the brand. It is a 21ct gold base with iron components included the projecting. When warmed it goes to a (superb, brilliant and deep) blue tone contingent upon the length of the warming; each BlueGold dial is subsequently having its interesting tone. This material is likewise utilized for the rotor.
We have not seen the development during our active time with the Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae, as the watches shot here are still models. It is supposed to be a
high quality programmed Vaucher movement (that is without a doubt an exceptionally overall quite dependable movement) completed by Andersen Geneve with world time complication module created in the atelier. Each component of this watch is delivered in Switzerland, regardless of whether in Geneva or Neuchâtel Canton. UPDATE: the new development of decision is a N.O.S. AS development that will be revised by Andersen.
Personalization is conceivable on the Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae, as you can add a exceptional city name or picking a unique book tone on the “city ring” of the dial or you can choose an uncommon tone for the numbers on the 24-hour ring of the dial. Obviously, a book can be engraved on the plain caseback. The Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae is a restricted version of 75 pieces (25 pieces in 18k yellow gold, 25 pieces in 18k white gold and 25 pieces in 18k red gold). It will be conveyed end of summer 2015 (pre-orders are currently opened) against CHF 46,800 in yellow gold or CHF 48,600 in red gold or white gold.
That said, we certainly really liked this watch. All the components of a great watch are brought together: a dazzling execution (nature of the case, accuracy of the printings and of the guilloché designs), a rich and inspired shape and a valuable complication. Obviously, some will contend that it’s simply a duplicate of a vintage observe however we will disagree with them. It’s a recognition, executed by a man that dominated this complication, that worked for the assembling he took motivation from (i.e. Patek Philippe) and that brings its own touch with both current and old style execution. Bravo!
If you feel as much interest as us in this eminent piece of free watchmaking, you can contact our companion Christian Bissener from Watch Collector for pre-orders – www.watchcollector.lu
Also more data at the Andersen Genève website: www.andersen-geneve.ch