As watch darlings, you unquestionably realize that the meaning of an exquisite and dress watch incorporates some undebatable prerequisites: a slim profile, a straightforward appearance, a very nude display, a moderately little case ideally made in a valuable metal, for example, gold or platinum and a general look ready to fit with your most delightful Italian suit. Today – and along with our associates of WatchTime – here are two of the best instances of what could be the ideal dress watch – a comparative review of two ultra-dainty programmed watches: the Girard-Perregaux 1966 vs. the Audemars-Piguet Jules Audemars.
In 1966 — a year where Switzerland’s cantons started discussing casting a ballot rights for ladies and a Swiss ref settled on the disputable decision that granted soccer’s World Cup to England over Germany at London’s Wembley Stadium — the Swiss watch maker Girard-Perregaux got the Centenary Prize from the Neuchâtel Observatory for remarkable accomplishments in watchmaking. The triumphant watch consolidated two of the company’s inventions: oneself winding Gyromatic framework and a quick beat caliber that accomplished a frequency of 36,000 vph. Girard-Perregaux would soon thereafter enter the set of experiences books by presenting Switzerland’s first mass-produced quartz watch, which basically made its mechanical high-recurrence watch out of date. In 2006, Girard-Perregaux presented its 1966 assortment, named to commemorate the Observatory award.
Audemars Piguet’s Caliber 2120 appeared in 1967. With a thickness of just 2.45 mm, it stays one of the world’s thinnest automatic developments. The company had been making meager developments since 1946, when it presented a hand-wound movement measuring just 1.64 mm thick, trailed by the Cal. 2003, the “extra-level,” whose skeletonized variant was introduced in 1953. Type 2120 was a joint venture between Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Patek Philippe. In spite of the fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre really delivered the development, with monetary and specialized help from the other three, Audemars Piguet claims selective rights to it today and utilizations it to control its Jules Audemars Extra Thin watch.
In light of the watch world’s reestablished interest in slim, exquisite watches, we investigated the Audemars-Piguet Jules Audemars and the Girard-Perregaux 1966, which both epitomize the trend.
A see through the sapphire caseback of the Jules Audemars uncovers Caliber 2120’s particular, exquisite lines and wonderful completions. The development is outfitted with a strange winding framework. The 21k-gold winding weight is affixed to the rotor with screws. The weight drives the twisting framework such that keeps the barrel at an ideal degree of execution. The mainspring supplies its energy in a steady way and this advances more prominent rate exactness. Be that as it may, on the circumstance machine, it didn’t actually create the outcomes we anticipated. At the point when completely twisted, the watch acquired 3.1 seconds of the day. In the wake of running for 24 hours, it acquired 1.5 seconds of the day. These were generally excellent outcomes overall, however the most extreme contrasts between the rates in different positions were enormous, 17.1 seconds and 24.5 seconds, separately, when the watch was completely twisted and following 24 hours. Be that as it may, rare sorts of people who wear this watch will be disturbed by these distinctions, or even enormously notice them, in light of the fact that the Jules Audemars has neither a seconds sign nor a hack mechanism.
The most extraordinary component of the Jules Audemars’ barrel connect is the supposed “flying” barrel plan, which adds to the slimness of the development and still guarantees a force save of 40 hours, abnormal for a watch so slim. The winding is bidirectional gratitude to a reverser. In light of a legitimate concern for keeping the watch slight, the architects didn’t utilize a metal roller. The sidelong play of the rotor’s wavering weight is restricted by a fringe ring moving on four jeweled sprinters fixed to the mainplate. This delivers a particular sound when the rotor is moving. The equilibrium, with its variable snapshot of dormancy, is changed with six idleness blocks. It vibrates at a recurrence of 19,800 vph.
The 2120 development has been deliberately wrapped up. It is completely amassed and enlivened by hand in Audemars Piguet’s workshops, and the nature of the workmanship is plain to see. The scaffolds are sloped and cleaned by hand, the surfaces are improved with côtes de Genève, and the patterns have a perlage finish. The flanks of the scaffolds have a matte surface and the breaks for the gems are precious stone cut. Indeed, even the edges and openings of the screw heads are sloped. The mainplate has a perlage finish on the two sides. The perlage has a three-dimensional look on account of the utilization of two distinct widths on the granulating device. The gold rotor gives the delegated contact to the development, with the breathtakingly skeletonized “AP” initials within.
In terms of excellence, Girard-Perregaux’s Caliber 03300-39 could give the 2120 a run for its cash. A look through the sapphire caseback uncovers fine ornamental completions on a standard with those of Audemars Piguet’s development: a 21k-rose-gold rotor with roundabout côtes de Genève finish and straight côtes de Genève on the extensions underneath the rotor. The perlage design on the mainplate, rotor and bed connect recommends a brilliant sky. Type 03300-39 is gotten from the 3300/3000, which Girard-Perregaux created in 1994. Today it fills in as a base for various watch developments with different capacities and complications, similar to the date sign and little seconds show in this one. These augmentations, unavoidably, make the development somewhat thicker than the 2120. What’s more, on the grounds that the Girard-Perregaux development is more current, it contains more present day features.
The watch’s specialized features incorporate its movement works, its rotor and its escapement, which has a few strange highlights. The movement works system encompasses just four wheels, which forestalls imprecision when the hands are set. As opposed to the Audemars Piguet watch, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 can be set precisely on account of its little seconds show and hack mechanism.
The rotor for the winding system is unidirectional and works counterclockwise. With a transmission proportion of 120:1, it is to some degree more proficient than other unidirectional rotors. The discussion about the benefits of unidirectional vs. bidirectional self-winding frameworks is ceaseless. Girard-Perregaux, notwithstanding, has been committed to the unidirectional framework since the time it presented its notable Gyromatic twisting instrument in 1965. The 03300-39 rotor sits on a small bridge that has a perlage finish and is held set up by two blued screws. Underneath the extension, the rotor’s pinion networks with a tick wheel that sends capacity to the barrel toward the turning rotor, through extra wheels (decrease and move), and afterward openly turns in the inverse direction.
The escapement has particularly current highlights. The break wheel (which has steeply slanting teeth) and the bed are mounted underneath a common scaffold that is connected to the mainplate rather strangely, with two diversely estimated blued screws. The passage and leave stones are indistinguishably formed. The level Nivarox-1 hairspring is joined to the Glucydur balance utilizing a laser and Nivatronic collet. The equilibrium vibrates at 28,800 vph. On the circumstance machine, the watch acquired two seconds out of each day when completely twisted and six seconds of the day subsequent to running for 24 hours. At the point when worn on the wrist, the watch acquired around four seconds out of each day. (Sadly, on the grounds that the Jules Audemars watch has no seconds sign, we were unable to quantify its on-the-wrist performance.)
On the other hand, in the present upsetting occasions, some may say, who actually needs a seconds show? It is unquestionably not missed on the Jules Audemars’ perfect, finely completed matte silver dial. The restricted, gold, leaf-molded hands highlight the 12 long, brilliant markers put around the boundary of the dial. The moment hand broadens most of the way along the length of the marker, while a recognizable distance stays between the hour hand and the markers. Generally speaking, the dial makes an extremely fine, adjusted impression.
The showcases of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 are very moderate. In the little seconds subdial, the splendid blue seconds hand glances somewhat strange among the generally brilliant tones on the dial, and the red “60” — one of Girard-Perregaux’s trademarks — stands apart excessively. In any case the silver dial is very agreeable. Like the dial on the Jules Audemars, the G-P dial has a scarcely discernible difference finish and inclines tenderly descending along its fringe in the style of watches from the 1960s. Unfortunately, this causes the applied markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock not to lie completely level at the finishes. Different markers are neatly executed in dark. The metallic, leaf-formed hands are like those on the Jules Audemars and are consummately proportioned. The moment hand closes unequivocally where the markers stop, and the hour hand stretches out nearly to where they start, just contacting the closures of the markers at 6 and 12 o’clock.
The dial and hands of the 1966 blend delightfully with the unordinary case material, palladium, a metal in the platinum gathering. It is more vigorous than gold, has a splendid white tone and doesn’t oxidize. The moderately steep slant of the bezel proceeds with the ebb and flow of the dial and afterward prompts a thin case midriff that at that point limits further to the caseback. This shape permits the little crown to be gotten a handle on effectively for the standard capacities: hand-twisting, snappy date change and setting the time. The 38-mm case, made by Girard-Perregaux itself, is shut with a straightforward spring pivot. The caseback gives data about the watch, including its chronic number. The palladium adaptation is restricted to 199 pieces.
The Jules Audemars is just three millimeters bigger than the 1966, yet shows up a lot bigger because of the totally open dial and the state of the gold case. The level, tight bezel gives the dial a lot of room and its cleaned sparkle remains as an unmistakable difference to the fine matte completion of the delicately descending bending case waist. As on the Girard-Perregaux 1966, the little crown is not difficult to get a handle on when you need to wind the watch by hand. The sound the watch creates as it is being wound resembles that made by an old pocketwatch. The caseback, with its cleaned and glossy silk completed surfaces, is held set up by five screws. The producer indicates 2 bar (20 meters) as this present watch’s water–obstruction level, which implies, basically, that it ought not be in water by any means. What is most striking is the agreeable connection between the watch development and the case. The line finish on the matte, skeletonized rotor coordinates the one on the caseback, and the point of the wavering weight reflects that of the cleaned part of the caseback.
Finally, the fine, earthy colored crocodile-calfskin lash completes the concordance of the Jules Audemars. The lash is an ideal counterpart for the rose-gold case and fits cozily on the wrist. It is gotten with an immaculate, exemplary, rose-gold clasp. A comparable clasp, in white gold, gets the sewed, dark cowhide tie of the Girard-Perregaux 1966, which embraces the wrist similarly as comfortably.
As our examination shows, even straightforward, slim watches, for example, these can show inconspicuous however huge contrasts. What these two share practically speaking is that their inward activities, which all in all address over 25 years of innovative work, show the capability of creative watchmaking even in a positively compact package.
Specs and last verdict
AUDEMARS PIGUET Jules Audemars Extra-Thin
- In-house development with top of the line finishing
- Pure design
- Good rate results on timing machine
- Good daytime legibility
- Comfortable to wear
- Can’t be perused in the dark
- No extra-signs or complications
- Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet & Cie SA, Route de France 16, CH 1348, Le Brassus, Switzerland
- Reference number: 15180OR.OO.A088CR.01
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Movement: Audemars Piguet 2120/4, programmed; 19,800 vph; 36 gems; copper-beryllium offset with variable snapshot of dormancy; level Nivarox hairspring; Kif safeguard; fine guideline by idleness blocks; breadth = 28 mm; tallness = 2.45 mm; improved with perlage, côtes de Genève, and sunburst completes; sloped edges; skeletonized rotor; 40-hour power reserve
- Case: 18k rose gold with sapphire precious stone front and back; water-impervious to 20 meters
- Strap and clasp: Brown crocodile cowhide with pronged buckle
- Dimensions: Diameter = 41.02 mm, stature = 6.86 mm, weight = 64.5 grams
- Variations: White-gold case (24.300 Euros)
- (in Rose Gold)
GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 Small Second Date
- In-house movement
- Features a date and a little second
- Good rate results
- Good daytime legibility
- Comfortable to wear
- Priced beneath the AP
- Can’t be perused in the dark
- Movement is tiny for the case
- Manufacturer: Girard-Perregaux SA, 1 Place Girardet, CH 2301, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
- Reference number: 49526-79-131-BK6A
- Functions: Hours, minutes, little seconds, date indication
- Movement: GP03300-39, programmed; 28,800 vph; 28 gems; Glucydur balance; level Nivarox 1 hairspring; Kif safeguard; Triovis fine guideline; width = 25.6 mm; tallness = 3.2 mm; improved with perlage, côtes de Genève, and sunburst completes; slanted edges; blued screws; 48-hour power reserve
- Case: Palladium 950 with nonreflective sapphire precious stone front and back; water-impervious to 30 meters
- Strap and clasp: Leather with pronged buckle
- Dimensions: Diameter = 38 mm, stature = 8.67 mm, weight = 52 grams
- (in Rose Gold)
This article was first distributed on WatchTime.com here and republished on Monochrome-Watches with approval (unique photography by Zuckerfabrik Fotodesign)