Yesterday we gave a view into the universe of jumping watches, and explicitly the earliest reference point ( check it here ). While today’s plunge watches are mostly utilized for ‘desk-diving’ – as gatherers allude to the wrist time that their jump watches get in the office – and scarcely get in contact with the pungent ocean water that they are intended for, this class of watches stays extremely mainstream. Anyway, harking back to the 1950’s and 1960’s individuals like Jacques-Yves Cousteau accomplished notable work exploring and growing, together with various watch companies, the essential properties for plunge watches. Back then, jump watches were life-saving instruments; something that is in solid difference with today’s primary utilization of this classification of watches. Earlier today we start with the real watches that Cousteau and his team wore during the 1960’s. This evening we’ll disclose to you about their watches in the 1970’s and 1980’s.
Lets Talk about Watches…. Cousteau’s watches in the 1960’s
Right after the Second World War in France, Captain Robert ‘Bounce’ Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, both of the French combat jumping corps, begun to look for a watch fit for withstanding their military plunging missions – they assisted Blancpain with refining the incredible Fifty Fathoms that had been created by the brand’s CEo, Jacques Fiechter. In the film ‘Silent World’ (1956) we can see Cousteau having on his wrist most likely an early Rolex ref.6205, while Andre Laban, his main jumper and designer wore a first arrangement Blancpain FF. The Rolex is one of the soonest reference Submariners, and generally it is the main reference to highlight a dial that really peruses “Submariner” on it. At its beginning phases, this notable jumper from Rolex had been introduced at Baselworld in 1954 and was then considered alongside the Blancpain FF as the zenith of diver’s watch technology.
As soon as the Rolex Submariner opened up, purchasers could purchase 3 distinct models. These were the Submariner ref.6200 with a water opposition of 200 meters, the Submariner ref.6204 with a 100-meter water obstruction and the Submariner ref.6205 with self-winding development type A.260 and a water obstruction of 100 meters. There were likewise no crown watches at that point yet. The FF is viewed as the first ‘modern’ jump watch and conveyed all the plan components we currently consider as standard in our cutting edge plunge watches (a dark dial with differentiating, self-iridescent numbers and files, a scored unidirectional bezel likewise in dark with brilliant numbers and lists). The round instance of the principal version estimated 42 millimeters with long drags. The watch was intended to be waterproof up to a profundity of 50 fathoms – which drove the brand to consider it the “Fifty Fathoms”. Fifty Fathoms, a British estimating unit, relates to a profundity of 91.45 meters, which, around then, considered as the greatest profundity that jumpers could securely reach.
unique Blancpain Fifty Fathoms from 1953 Andre Laban wearing a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
Besides these two and up to the mid 1970’s Cousteau and his team can be seen with Omega Seamaster 300’s, Lip Nautic Ski’s and the Aquastar Deepstar. In the ‘World without Sun’ film, and in the early part of the arrangement ‘The undersea universe of Jacques Cousteau’ we can see Albert Falco with a Blancpain FF and Jacques Cousteau and Andre Laban with early Rolex submariners (no crown watches/NCG).
The Conshelf II jumper team had exploratory Omega Seamaster 300’s (ref.165.024), and since the model was presented in 1964 and the trial began in the mid year of 1963. Raymond Coll and Philippe Cousteau can likewise be seen wearing Aquastar Deepstar models while Bernard Delmotte wore among others a Nivada Grenchen Depthomatic. The ZRC Grands Fonds and likewise the Lip Nautic-Ski can be seen on the wrists of different jumpers. However, gives put things access to arrange here and allude to the watches in little detail.
The Lip Nautic-Ski presented in 1967 and turned out to be very celebrated as a result of the Calypso association for the most part. It was forefront innovation at that point and highlighted two crowns; a case that was before long named ‘Supercompressor’. This case, designed by Ervin Piquerez, offered 200m water obstruction without screw-down crowns and the R184 electro-mechanical development was to be the fate of watch accuracy.
Lip began trying different things with power effectively back in 1928, and they created some fascinating electric clocks with regards to the pre-war time frame, yet it wasn’t until 1948 that they began work intensely on electric watches. In 1958, Lip put their first R27-put together electromechanical watch with respect to the market, however it was the R148 that had the effect and prepared the Nautic-Ski. The R148 was Lip’s second electro-mechanical development, however their first truly fruitful one. It actually utilized an equilibrium, yet had improved exchanging and hardware, and just required one battery instead of the R27’s two. It was additionally simpler to deliver and control. It had 14 gems and beat at 18,000.
Another jumper from this period is the Z.R.C. étanche grands fonds. Made by the French arm band producer Zuccolo, Rochet & Cie the watch is considered by numerous gatherers to be the main genuinely 300m-appraised jumper watch. The Z.R.C created its plunging line of watches from 1950 up to 1975 (three arrangement) and what can been seen on the Cousteau narratives, is the arrangement 2 with the Bakelite bezel, the odd looking arm band and the crown at 6 o’clock. This model was received rapidly by the professional French jumpers like the third gathering of mine freedom jumpers based at Toulon, the acclaimed Hubert commando unit, and from some Calypso divers.
ZRC jumper promotion ZRC on the wrist of Claude Laperyre
Its advancements which incorporated a magnesium lodging for the type which made the watch against attractive, the wristband with two expandable connections which empowered the watch to be fitted on top of the jumping suit, and the crown position, an ergonomically stable arrangement that gave extraordinary security to the life span of the watch submerged; these were exceptional highlights that made a magnificent ‘purpose built’ jumper. The watch can been seen on the wrist of Claude Laperyre, jumper of the Calypso team and around then it was more costly that the Rolex Submariner.
The last three watches from this early period we will find in more detail are my #1 watches ever; the Seamaster 300, the Aquastar Deepstar and the Depthomatic from Nivada. The Omega is viewed as one of the original jumpers. Presented in 1957 as a part of the heavenly trinity of sports watches by Omega (CK 2913,2914,2915 – Seamaster, Railmaster, Speedmaster). The early references CK2913, CK14755 and the momentary 145.014 can’t been seen despite the fact that there may be a portion of the Calypso jumpers that wore them, after all the Omega was considered ‘the plunge watch to own’ at that point, alongside the early Rolex Submariners and the Blancpain. It was the ref.165.024 that started Cousteau’s close and dependable connection with the company as we will see. This Seamaster, gave to the Royal Navy too, can be seen all through the ‘World without Sun’ film that reported the Conshelf II analyses. These particular watches were models given by Omega and they are set apart on their caseback with CONSHELF II – RED SEA/63.
Aquastar overall is a company that as I would see it is exceptionally underestimated. Established in 1962 in Geneva and drove by the main Designer and jumper Mr. Frederic Robert, (later went to Omega to assist with their Seamaster arrangement), the company created watches which consistently had close binds with the ocean; jumpers, chronographs, Regatta clocks, and so forth The company initially delivered the Seatime model which had a twofold activity crown (watch and interior crown capacities) and with this 200m model the Cousteau relationship began to evolve.
However the Aquastar Deepstar can been seen all the more often. This model was a moderate estimated 38mm chronograph, evaluated at 100m and during its lifetime it had the Valjoux cal.23 and the cal.92. With its unmistakable plan having a bidirectional bezel with decompression and jump time signs this jumper chronograph can be obviously seen on the wrists of Philippe Cousteau or Raymond Coll on the Conshelf III examinations. Alongside the Benthos rock solid jumpers, the Deepstar is incredibly significant and uncommon in today’s vintage watches market and maybe quite possibly the most firmly connected watches with Cousteau.
Aquastar Seatime Raymond Coll wearing an Aquastar Deepstar in the Conshelf III Aquastar Deepstar submerged
Finally, in this period Bernard Delmotte used to wear and can been seen frequently with a Nivada Depthomatic. Nivada, situated at the town of Grenchen, was a medium size company, which anyway created fascinating watches. Maybe the most popular of all was the Chronomaster chronograph. For our situation the distinctive attribute of the Depthomatic was that it could work as a profundity gauge by utilizing the Bourdon tube profundity measure rule. Surrounding pressure was sent to the system of the measure called a C-spring, which is an empty spring looking like a C. The exchange of pressing factor from the minuscule opening situated at 3 o’clock fixes the spring and this movement moved to the dial component. The 38,5 mm case had a twofold divider acrylic precious stone and the watch housed the 17 gems ETA cal.2451. Nivada used to make this watches additionally for LeJour and Favre-Leuba, as well.
Nivada Depthomatic Nivada Depthomatic on the wrist