De Bethune’s passage for the Only Watch sell off is apparently the most exceptional of each of the 43 one of a kind pieces that are being given to this cause closeout, which is set under the support of Prince Albert II of Monaco. Obviously you might want to know why I made a particularly intense proclamation. Particularly after so numerous über-great exceptional pieces for Only Watch have been presented, similar to the Patek 5016A (a never-ending schedule, tourbillon and minute repeater), the Tourbillon Souverain Blue from Francois-Paul Journe, the GMT-6 by Kari Voutilainen and many, some more. The explanation behind that striking articulation lies in the watch’ reference… Let’s view the De Bethune DBS ref. DBS 2005-2015 for Only Watch 2015.
The reference number of De Bethune’s section for the Only Watch closeout, DBS ref. 2005-2015, pretty much says everything. Ten years prior, David Zanetta (imaginative virtuoso) and Denis Flageollet (ace watchmaker), decided to help the Only Watch project. Particularly for this renowned closeout they designed/developed the absolute first DBS, which was (in reality actually is) a staggeringly innovative watch with a very progressive design. Quick forward ten years, and De Bethune has made another one of a kind DBS for the Only Watch closeout, with a reference that refers to its own story that began back in 2005.
Since 2015 imprints the 10th commemoration of the DBS, De Bethune likewise dispatched a 10-piece commemoration restricted release DBS before this year. It’s essentially like this unique piece for Only Watch 2015 (as demonstrated above), aside from the OW adaptation has a few red components that are not on the 10 restricted version pieces. Gracious, and the restricted release DBS includes a tourbillon, that is likewise fitted in this pièce unique.
What they share, is the white gold case, with noteworthy cone-molded lower drags and the crown at 12 o’clock, that measures 45 mm by 42.5 mm. The turning gold plate associating the lash (at the 12 o’clock position) and the case center, really was the trailblazer of what might later become known as skimming carries – a splendid arrangement of moving drags that assurance Comfort with a capital C; we described it widely in our new audit of the DB28 Black Matte .
Inside ticks obviously an in-house development, as with all (modern) De Bethune watches, and these are not ‘just’ in-house development, however offer substantially more. In past articles I have called Denis Flageolet, the expert watchmaker and prime supporter, the ‘mad professor’ on account of the unprecedented developments, world firsts and the ten licenses that are recorded by the Manufacture since its origin in 2002. He has utilized different (inventive) materials to improve the fountainhead barrels, balance, balance spring and the stun assimilation framework for the escapement. Brain you, this is a serious accomplishment for a particularly little manufacture!
While the calibre of the first DBS was at that point loaded with developments, the new DBS includes probably the most up to date advancements. The DBS 2005-2015 highlights a silicon and white gold equilibrium haggle silicon get away from wheel. Noticeable through a little opening for the situation back is the force hold marker that shows how much remaining parts of the 6-day power save of this physically wound development, calibre DB2115.
For comparison, the 10th commemoration restricted release (type DB2019) is furnished with a 30-second tourbillon that vibrates at 36,000 vph. This ‘hi-beat’ tourbillon is ideal for a wristwatch and is incredibly light at 0.18 grams for an aggregate of 63 parts.
Again something that both the DBS ref. 2005-2015 and the 10th commemoration restricted release have in coming is the dial. Or then again really the absence of a dial. Like on the DB28 Black Matte that we investigated as of late, the dial is really an initial that reveals the excellence of the anthracite deltoid-molded extensions that subtly decorated by hand. The hour markers are spherical steel pointers, hand-cleaned and blued utilizing the well established fire blueing procedure, held by a titanium annular extension. On the far edges is a ‘minuterie’ or moment index.
Keep an eye on Monochrome in the coming months. We will post broadly once more, when the time is there to enlist for the Only Watch auction.