‘Haute Horlogerie‘, ‘in-house manufacture‘, ‘made by hand‘ are terms too often used by brands just for promoting reasons. With regards to truly value the excellence of a hand cleaned internal angle, of an equilibrium wheel planned in-house, of a black cleaned screw-head, the quantity of up-and-comers ready to accomplish a particularly level of detail is significantly lower than pamphlets would have you accept. Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen or Roger W Smith are members of the (incredibly) little pack of watchmakers worthy of such distinctions. Nonetheless, who as of late divulged his most recent creation, the new HMS Ten.
Romain Gauthier is a man that we definitely know here, as we presented to you the great (an it’s sort of an odd take on the cold, hard truth) Logical One , with its wire chain instrument and its astonishing wrapping up. You need to comprehend that Romain Gauthier’s developments are entirely imagined, created, planned, delivered, completed, amassed and regulated in-house, in the old practice of renowned and customary horology. To commend its 10th commemoration and 10 years of making Haute Horlogerie, Romain Gauthier just presented the HMS Ten.
Actually, we are discussing 3 editions:
- A platinum case with blue guilloché dial, development completed in dim – restricted to 10 pieces
- A 18k red gold case with champagne guilloché dial, development completed in black – restricted to 10 pieces
- A 18k white gold case with black guilloché dial, development completed in gold – restricted to 10 pieces
The HMS (hours, minutes, seconds) is an evidently basic watch however in fact is a characteristically complicated one, that acquires all its advantage with finishings and subtleties. The case is sensibly estimated at 41mm and carefully finished (full mirror cleaning) to focus the discussion on the dial and movement.
The dial is composed of 3 zones: a topsy turvy hours and minutes dial, encircled by a ‘clou de Paris’ motor turned belt. The subsequent zone is a little second, which overlaps the principle dial… But just part of the way, to leave some space and to not shroud the view on the third area. On the lower segment of the subdial, sectorial seconds permits visual admittance to the development underneath, with the equilibrium haggle gear driving the seconds on show. The three pieces of the dial are fixed undetectably from beneath, for a perfect and neat result.
If the dial as of now show a portion of the display, the unedited story can be found. What’s more, what a story to be told. We’re discussing unadulterated horological pleasantness here. Just to have a thought of the degree of work made by Romain Gauthier, investigate a nearby on a point and a wheel – source: HH Magazine, article here .
When you turn over the Romain Gauthier HMS Ten, you find something you likely didn’t notice previously: an enormous even crown. Investigate the pictures, at the start of this article. We’re almost certain that you didn’t notice the absence of a crown at first look. To acquire virtue, Romain Gauthier chose to move the crown to the back. Placing the crown level on the caseback likewise expands winding productivity since energy shouldn’t be sent through 90°. It likewise lessens wear and weight on components, just as improving comfort. The enormous measurement of the crown additionally empowers the watch to be effectively twisted, even while on the wrist.
Now, investigate the bridges. The enormous development connect on the top has a removed uncovering a portion of the fountainhead barrel and wrench click. This opening highlights four exceptionally cleaned, sharp inside inclined points – this anglage is the sign of standout hand completing since machines are not yet fit for processing and cleaning sharp interior points. The base piece of the development uncovers 3 finger-bridges that hold the principal wheel, the escapement haggle balance wheel. By and by, every one of them are done with inside slanted points, dark cleaning and cleaned and inclined screw-spaces and screw-heads.
The wheels that compose the stuff train are likewise recognizable, with their circular arms rather than the customary 2, 3 or 4 straight arms. Indeed, this profile improves strength yet also means a more troublesome wrapping up by hand on the grounds that no machine can complete little parts with these curves. The balance wheel is likewise explicit to the brand, with distinctive bended arms and aligned unconventional loads, planned, produced and amassed in-house by Romain Gauthier.
This amazing, practically special feeling of detail is the thing that Romain Gauthier is known for. In this specific circumstance, who truly thinks often about the 60-hour power save or the 28.800bph recurrence. What we cannot deny is that this youthful watchmaker (40 years of age) is completely engraved by customary haute horlogerie (he was one of Philippe Dufour’s understudies), with a cutting edge visual methodology and present day specialized arrangements. This HMS Ten is certainly the most ideal approach to say: Happy birthday and please, continue!
More subtleties on Romain Gauthier’s site .