aquet Droz. A brand not actually made for Europe, zeroed in mostly on the Asian market (the brand is amazingly famous in Hong Kong and China). It appears to be that the brand isn’t very much acknowledged in our old landmass. This is anyway in any case the intrinsic nature of the watches delivered by Jaquet Droz (on account of the Swatch Group, proprietor of the brand) and their normal style. We previously explored some JD ( here and here ), yet their last expansion is obviously an extremely decent one. Make the most of our survey of the new and handsome Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel, in 43mm and in red gold.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel is an exquisite dress watch, regardless of whether a portion of its particulars are fairly wide of our necessities for dress watches . Indeed, it is anything but a matter of plan or highlights however more a subject of size. This watch exists in two sizes, 39mm and 43mm (the one we had). Actually a for us dress watch would lean more towards smaller watches – under 40mm – and meager cases. The JD Enamel is neither small nor meager. In any case, what pushes us to order it as a dress watch is the general inclination on the wrist, both exquisite, unique and discreet.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel comes with the standard thing ‘8-state’ of the brand, which means a little hour and moment counter and an enormous second sub-dial. This format alludes to antique pocket-watches made by Pierre Jaquet-Droz during the second piece of the eighteenth century. When the brand returned to life in 2000 , the decision of this design was a wise (and rich) approach to make a character to the brand and to have watches which would be effectively unmistakable. The greater part of them are currently utilizing this normal dial, with or without added complications (tourbillon, schedule or moment repeater) and in different materials (enamel, Geneva Stripes design, stones, paillonné enamel , ceramic).
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel may look fundamentally the same as different watches of the JD assortment yet it really comes with upgrades for its development. Since its recharging , Jaquet Droz has been using developments dependent on a Frédéric Piguet type, that comes graciousness of Blancpain – likewise some portion of the Swatch Group. An excellent development (as we saw when exploring the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde SW ) yet now Jaquet Droz has chose to implement new technologies and to present the new Calibre 2660Q2.P. It comes with Jaquet Droz ordinary format, with an additional date complication, yet behind the dial can be found some interesting highlights, like silicon and a twofold barrel. Yet, we’ll get back on this part later in this review.
The other component to bring up is the dial – the brilliant ivory enamel dial we may say. This material, uncommon and hard to produce, is the primary reason of this Jaquet Droz’ enchant, taking into account that the remainder of the watch is near different versions effectively accessible. Along with the shape and the average JD show, the bundle looks splendid. Time presently to have a more critical glance at it.
Dial and hands
Jaquet Droz offers an incredibly huge determination of materials for their dials. Though a few brands choose to experiment with cases, shows and capacities. The direction of JD is extraordinary: utilizing a conspicuous and now notorious dial design in various materials, like uncommon stones, paillonné enamel, Geneva stripes, ceramic or mother of pearl. For this new version, the decision made is an ivory enamel which is more complicated to created than it sees first sight. Enamel is complicated to deliver in light of the fact that it requires gifted hands and a few firings in a broiler (a procedure considered Grand Feu enamel). At each progression of the terminating, air pockets or breaks can show up in the material and all the interaction must be done again without any preparation. Enamel is subsequently a long, painstaking and unsafe cycle. Be that as it may, this isn’t sufficient for JD, as the dial of the Grande Seconde Quantieme is made of not one however two layers (see the recessed part for the huge second). Besides, all the dark engravings are additionally made of enamel (this is certainly not a stepped veneer like a large portion of the watches).
The visual outcome is eminent. The tone is warm – a delicate velvety white – and the dial is finished, energetic (because of the little blemishes characteristic to enamel). This flawed render is essential for the appeal of enamel and you need to acknowledge some minor knocks and reliefs. The engravings are likewise amazingly fine and exact, considering we’re discussing enamel.
As said previously, the design is ordinary Jaquet Droz, with a little hour sub-dial at 12 and an enormous second at 6, a heritage propelled by the ‘8-state’ of Pierre Jaquet-Droz’ pocket watches. No concerns to have, decipherability and time perusing are extraordinary. For this new release, JD decided to add a useful indication,a pointer-type date display integrated in the huge second sub-dial. This expansion gives a viable angle to the watch without eliminating its characteristic immaculateness. The hands, made in 18k gold coordinating the case, are old style in their execution and proportional to the size of the sub-dials.
Case and strap
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel comes in 4 versions, which means 2 distinct sizes and 2 unique materials. You have the decision between a 39mm and a 43mm case and between 18k red gold and 18k white gold. Obviously, red gold presents a more lovely visual perspective that matches impeccably with the delicate and warm shade of the dial. White gold will be more nonpartisan. The decision of the size is more a matter of taste. Though 39mm would be our characteristic decision for a dress watch, the thickness of the case – 12.1mm – makes a marginally uneven outcome. The proportion among measurement and thickness is by all accounts more pleasant on the 43mm version. Notwithstanding, this size requires a more vigorous wrist to have a comfortable wearing encounter. Suppose that with a wrist under 17.5cm, the 39mm is more than recommended. The exceptionally bended hauls anyway help to put the watch effectively on the wrist.
The state of the case is wonderful and perfectly round. Both the bezel, the focal piece of the case and the caseback appear to be formed from a solitary square, without a solitary visible angle. The execution of the case, of the precious stone or of the tie is amazing all around. Changes are exact and cleaning is eminent. The tie, with a 18k gold pin-clasp, is likewise subjective yet can look quite dreary, as it comes without sewing. Nothing amiss with that however, a tie is not difficult to change.
Together with the dial, the development is the principle oddity of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel. As a feature of the Swatch Group, Jaquet Droz can rely on a high-standard Swiss fabricate, Frederic Piguet, presently part of Blancpain. Profiting of gathering’s cooperative energies, Jaquet Droz was utilizing a development called ‘type 2663′ (reviewed here and here ), in view of the well-known FP1150 (likewise utilized by Blancpain and Breguet). Presently it’s the ideal opportunity for Jaquet Droz to
Even on the off chance that it stays dependent on the FP1150, Jaquet Droz decided to add its own decoration, a marginally unique state of the extensions and another rotor. The completing is truly lovely with star-formed Geneva-Stripes (beginning from the focal point of the equilibrium wheel), inclined points on the scaffolds and roundabout graining on the principle plate and extensions (both on the upper and lower sides and on shrouded parts). The 18K red Gold rotor shows a skeletonized shape with magnificent cleaned points and a pleasant 3D engraving.
On the wrist
Despite its very amazing width – 43mm – this watch doesn’t feel larger than average. Combining the wonderful special visualization of a huge dial and the comfort of the bended carries, this is certainly a decent size. However, is it the best size?
We additionally tried the 39mm release. Without a doubt, it looks somewhat more classy and rich on the wrist. In any case, 2 aspects make us think that the two watches are intriguing. With the 39mm, the sub-dials feel more tightened, insert in the dial. The space around them in the 43mm version contributes to the visual joy. At that point, the 39mm version feels fairly lopsided due a different breadth/thickness proportion. On the generally, the 43mm width looks more fitting. The two watches have qualities: the delight of a more modest and dressier watch for the 39mm, a more adjusted visual inclination for the 43mm. The best is without a doubt to go to your neighborhood seller and to pick the one that suits you the best.
Jaquet Droz with its Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel just did it right. Regardless of whether the brand has a generally low profile in Europe, this new version was amazingly well welcomed by the business and enthusiasts. A few reasons for that: a sublime dial, a quality set to exclusive requirements, an intriguing development with nice finishes and modern features. The general segment is very much played and the music is lovely to hear. The last inquiry is that of which size is the correct size, something which will unmistakably be the decision of things to come owner.
The 43mm release is evaluated at 17.600 Euros and the 39mm is valued at 17.200 Euros.
- Superb dial
- Great combination of ivory enamel and red gold
- Perfect execution of the completions (gathering, polishing)
- Interesting development with pleasant finishings
- Comfort for a particularly huge watch
- A brand perhaps insufficient known for specific authorities, regardless of the nature of this piece
- A very weighty watch