Mixing military roots with appropriate style is something that is by all accounts almost unimaginable, given as the fundamental objective of a field watch isn’t to be decent yet only to be useful. Nonetheless, Breguet, with its assortment of pilot chronograph roused by vintage 1950s and 1960s watches, demonstrated to us that this mix is conceivable – and to be valid, the outcome is one of our #1 watches, the Breguet Type XX . For Only Watch 2015, the brand introduces a unique release of their more present day cycle of the retro pilot-propelled watch, the Breguet Type XXI, here manufactured in valuable platinum.
Compared to the Type XX that we deeply reviewed , the Breguet Type XXI contrasts in virtually all the angles, expect for its general look that stays near the its younger sibling – and accordingly holding near the vintage military Type 20 watches (Breguet or not). The XXI comes in a bigger case (42mm versus 39mm) and features a somewhat more complex development – that additionally oversees to keep its famous flyback work, implying that the chronograph can be restarted simply by squeezing the pusher at 4 once, rather than halting the chronograph, resetting it and re-dispatching it with a combination of the two pushers. The Calibre 584Q/1, a coordinated programmed chronograph development, includes additional capacities compared to the one cased in the Type XX: a day and night pointer at 3 and a date at 6. The showcase is likewise marginally unique, with the chronograph second and moment hands situated on the focal pivot, making the perusing of timings incredibly quick and exact. The rest is traditional for a tri-compax chronograph, with a little second at 9 and a 12-hour counter at 6.
For the first run through and particularly for this exceptional Only Watch 2015 version, Breguet is presenting the Type XXI in a valuable (and hefty) platinum case, making such a downplayed extravagance that only the wearer will know about. The dial of this version is likewise explicit – and really brilliant. It shows a matt record dark tone and remarkable cream-covered (artificial patina) Arabic numerals and hands, for a more vintage/military inclination. This exceptional plan is complemented by an aged calfskin cowhide lash. As regular with the watches from the assortment, the outcome is an expected retro pilot-motivated plan combined here with a hint of innovation (the bigger 42mm case) and the correct measurement of tastefulness and extravagance (the fluted case made of 950 platinum).
This Breguet Type XXI Ref. 3813 in platinum for Only Watch 2015 will be important for the 43 watches to be auctioned on 7 November in Geneva by Bacs/Russo/Phillips Watches, to help raise assets to help Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. More subtleties can be found on Breguet.com .