You’ve likely seen this one all around the web, just after its presentation during Baselworld 2015. Obviously, the Tudor North Flag was one of the fundamental curiosities for the Rolex/Tudor Group yet we decided to stand by prior to examining it. Why? The explanation is basic: this watch is significant as it addresses a genuine defining moment for the brand (new development, new plan) additionally this watch underlines its autonomy with its bitter split from older sibling Rolex. Here are our considerations on this vital timepiece, the new Tudor North Flag.
If you are returning perusers of our online magazine, we surmise that you have a more than normal interest in watches and you as of now have your own assessment on the new Tudor North Flag. Its plan may not be the solitary purpose of conversation. The stakes behind it are greater than simply presenting a recently planned watch and additionally another style for the Tudor assortment. Tudor was and still is essential for Rolex. Notwithstanding, as we referenced, the North Flag is a defining moment throughout the entire existence of Tudor. We can consider it to be their Declaration of Independence that Tudor ships off Rolex – or is it a move from Rolex for Tudor not to cannibalize the deals of the Submariner… Good inquiry that solitary the head under the crown could reply. The purpose of our assessment article isn’t carry the response to the reasons why, yet rather to take a gander at the outcomes and our opinion on this move – however let’s first have a more critical glance at the Tudor North Flag.
The Tudor North Flag in detail
For quite a long while, Tudor played ‘the vintage card’ with current understandings and re-issues of works of art from their old and collectible models, similar to the blue Submariner for the French marine, engraved with M.N. for Marine Nationale (one that plainly was the motivation of the new Pelagos Blue ), the Snow Flake hands of a few of Tudor’s vintage Submariners (that are available in the modern Black Bay ), the vintage Tudor Ranger ( re-gave a year ago ) or the Monte Carlo Chronograph (additionally re-gave as the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue ). No compelling reason to go further, Tudor played on this pattern for 3/4 years and with progress. At the point when we originally saw the North Flag, we thought it was a shiny new plan, current and selective, however this isn’t entirely the case as it finds a touch of its motivation in the (nearly) obscure Tudor Ranger II (photograph here ). In any case, actually basic, this watch is very surprising from the remainder of the assortment that might have been viewed as vintage propelled Rolex watches stepped with another logo. The North Flag can’t be seen any longer as a Rolex and the plan obviously represents an extraordinary DNA.
The 40mm glossy silk completed spotless case has an advanced methodology with incorporated hauls (something that will make it hard for gatherers to play with secondary selling ties) and a gigantic mono-alliance shape. Regardless of whether some 1970’s signs can be found here (a touch of Gerald Genta style, suggestive of for example the IWC Ingenieur), the North Flag looks and feels 21st century. So does its development with a twofold bezel made of a matt dark earthenware ring and a glossy silk completed treated steel ring on top. It’s unmistakably a cutting edge and solid watch that can be known as a tool watch. The dial likewise has a coordinating style, with splendid yellow accents – on the second hand, the moment track and the force save pointer – making an incredible differentiation with the matte dark dial and the enormous iridescent white numbers/files/hands.
The nature of the development (the dial, the case and the arm band) is, of course, not questionable; it is more than brilliant in its price range. It’s spotless, sharp, exact and very first rate. It seems like Tudor has similar guidelines as Rolex – hold on, that’s near be the case in fact. The measurements are sensible enough for incredible wearing comfort and a flexibility to each wrist. Then again, the Tudor North Flag doesn’t feel too little to even consider being viewed as an appropriate apparatus watch. End: the North Flag feels like an instrument watch with top caliber and a plan that we’re not going to banter here. As we advised you, we expect that you’ve made up your own mind about it. The primary concern of interest comes from something different and the ‘Chronometer Officially Certified‘, as referenced on the dial, as of now gives it away.
Here we are: the fundamental curiosity of the Tudor North Flag is taken cover behind the dial. It includes a spic and span development, restrictive to Tudor. Prior to this watch (and the 2015 version of the Pelagos ), Tudor utilized outsider developments (from ETA). Opportunity has arrived for the defining moment in tudor’s set of experiences and an in-house development is a significant advance forward. The Tudor calibre MT5621 can be seen through a sapphire case-back (another first for the brand). Compared to the ETA developments, that it’s going to supplant, the upgrades are observable. In the first place, it comes with a somewhat long force save of 70 hours (just about 3 days). Also, it includes an antimagnetic winding, made in silicon, and has an offset wheel with variable dormancy screws (that vibrates at 28.800 vph). At long last, it is chronometer, certified by COSC. The watch demonstrates hours, minutes and seconds on the focal hub, the date through a prudent aperture at 3 (with momentary seize 12 PM) and a force hold pointer at 9 – something that the 2015 Tudor Pelagos (with 4 lines dial) doesn’t have regardless of whether it has a similar base movement.
The finish of this new in-house development looks clearly basic, anyway it is not terrible by any stretch of the imagination. The purposeful decision of sand-shot surfaces on the extensions fits well with the instrument watch idea and the subtleties are charming. Obviously, it isn’t as per Haute Horlogerie guidelines, anyway that was likely not Tudor’s objective with the North Flag. And in addition, a movement got done with côte de Genève, roundabout graining, hand-angled scaffolds, etc would mean a noteworthy cost increment and along these lines be in direct competition with the older sibling Rolex – something difficult to envision. All things being equal, the value stays very reasonable.
The Tudor North Flag with its in-house development, excellent generally speaking completion, and intriguing highlights (compared to the past ETA-based Tudor) keeps the equivalent price range as other Tudor models. The release on tie will be valued at € 3.060 Euros and the version on hardened steel arm band will be evaluated at € 3.150 Euros – essentially an expansion of 300 euros compared to an ETA-based Tudor, which is truly sensible for the delight of an in-house movement.
What to consider the Tudor North Flag?
Let us go over this inquiry: why the North Flag is significant and/or perilous for Tudor? What is the genuine article behind it, other than being another watch in the collection?
We advised you, we held up a piece prior to acquainting this watch with you, here on Monochrome-Watches. We decided to process it and to hear responses. We can see this watch, as another edition in the assortment, however more as a Declaration of Independence from Tudor. It shouts of a solid wish to dispose of the past and of the common picture that Tudor was a poor man’s Rolex. Thinking about the real achievement of the brand, this contention is both absolutely reasonable and furthermore very risky.
The reason of Tudor’s accomplishment in the previous 4/5 years depends on the Black Bay and the Pelagos, two jump watches that are vigorously propelled on vintage Tudor Submariner, which thusly were intensely enlivened on the Rolex Submariner. The new parcels show a cooler, and more youthful methodology. No offense in this proclamation, since we are enormous fanatics of the Black Bay here at Monochrome – particularly the 12 PM blue version . Same goes for the 2014 Ranger that individuals regularly view as a cool Rolex Explorer at a lower cost. A low cost related with an extraordinary plan propelled from perhaps the most important brands (Rolex) and an awesome quality, made the achievement of Tudor. In any case, with the North Flag they face the challenge to move away from these attributes.
The move from ETA to an in-house development is something we acclaim for a few reasons. To begin with, it gives the brand more freedom since it’s less subject to outside providers. Also, it adds greater selectiveness to the assortment. It likewise underscores the validity of Tudor as an assembling and it separates it from its large brother Rolex. At long last, the value stays worthy. Considering who’s behind the turn of events, we have no uncertainty about the nature of this development that was positively tried over and over prior to being dispatch. 1 point for the movement.
Now comes the topic of the plan. We’re not going to pass judgment on it here however it must be said: the North Flag makes a break in the assortment. It is far away from the vintage propelled subject that they utilized for quite a long while. It’s even a significant move from the Rolex-like plan motivation. The North Flag doesn’t feel like the remainder of the assortment, with its brilliant yellow accents, its coordinated hauls and mono-coalition case. It’s more current, more ‘tool-ish’.
Concluding words: For the occasion, the accomplishment of Tudor depended on a solid exposure made by fans who enjoyed the vibe of the recent watches, on the grounds that they knew where they were coming from. Be that as it may, if Tudor needs to create on new business sectors and to pull in new clients (more youthful or less bad-to-the-bone watch enthusiasts), having its own character is a significant contention. A risky move yet an inevitable one. We ought to fail to remember for once about what WE (which means in-your-face gatherers, watch monstrosities, watch nerds…) consider everything except rather attempt to envision how new-comers will respond to this watch. The North Flag has numerous contentions compared to a few different brands. The fundamental one is likewise sort of unexpected, in light of the fact that regardless of whether Tudor needs to have its freedom from Rolex, its most grounded point is additionally to depend on the super-solid picture of its mom company.