When you think “ Nomos Glashütte “, what you presumably have in your psyche are somewhat little, clean watches roused by Bauhaus (a German school of craftsmanship, blending innovation and effortlessness) like the Nomos Ahoi and the Nomos Tangente . As of late, the brand acquired significantly more love from us with the presentation of both complicated watches (see the Nomos Zürich Weltzeit ) and completely in-house developments (with the Minimatik and the new Caliber DUW 3001 ). What was not actually anticipated from the brand anyway was some rich, gold, dress watches – yet they did it (and they did it well) with the Lux and the Lambda . The last comes now in an even more rich version: Review of the Nomos Lambda 39mm – The Luxurious Gold Nomos in a more modest size.
In the new years, Nomos have been very dynamic. To begin with, they’ve been moving to (nearly) completely in-house developments – and honestly not the most noticeably terrible ones, as for example this programmed world-clock type that can be found in the Nomos Zürich Weltzeit (there’s even a very cool film that you can see here ). At that point, they moved to significantly more in-house developments, as Nomos are currently delivering their own balances and escapements – the “Swing System”, as revealed here . Later once more, they introduced another development, this time completely in-house and with a slim yet programmed design: the DUW 3001 development that is cased in the brand new Nomos Minimatik . Pleasant developments for a somewhat little brand/produce. Be that as it may, every one of these developments, systems, models are as yet conveyed in the center assortment of the brand, which means a 1.500 Euros to 4.000 Euros range – which we won’t complain about.
However, there’s another move from the brand that we didn’t expect: watches in gold and valued north of 10.000 Euros – unmistakably not the standard looks for Nomos. These watches are known as the Lux and the Lambda and their costs are not supported simply by the utilization of white or rose gold and their pleasantly formed cases. They likewise include a more complex, better completed, better looking development. Not that different types from Nomos are not wonderful, but rather those cased in the Lux and Lambda are obviously playing in an alternate association. With a specific achievement, the watches persuaded and satisfied customers – however the 42mm instance of the Lambda was absolutely all in all too enormous compared to the soul of Nomos, which typically set the measurement path under 40mm, in any event, for a gentleman’s watch. Consequently, in 2015, the Nomos Lambda assortment is augmented with another 39mm version and new tones, including the 18k rose gold with black/earthy colored dial we’re going to audit for you.
The Nomos Lambda 39mm
In terms of plan, the ancestry with different assortments from Nomos makes no uncertainty. At that point Lambda unmistakably comes from similar personalities – something that is much more genuine with this 39mm release, nearer to the principles of the brand. The general look is perfect and present day – once more, the Bauhaus motivation is perceptible. What changes with the Lambda is the flavor, much the same as if the formula got an extra-zest that changes the taste a piece – however very little, just subtlety. While the past (and traditional) Nomos watches look lively – or possibly easygoing – with their adapted Arabic numerals and some shaded accents on the lists or the hands, the Lambda is a more refined, dressier and even more clean. This vision of the idea makes a dress watch. It’s not appropriately a super conventional watch (what we call here a Tuxedo watch) yet calling it easygoing won’t be pertinent anymore.
The primary issue with the 42mm version was not its size itself – 42mm is, to genuine guidelines, an ordinary size. In any case, the Lambda has a very meager bezel – not to say that it has no bezel by any means. Combine this plan component with a brilliant dial and you get a watch that for all intents and purposes looks bigger than it is actually (it’s a reality, white/silver dials consistently look bigger on the wrist than dim dials). With 3mm less, the 39mm release of the Nomos Lambda is both more pleasant on the wrist, it feels more comfortable and it additionally better sits in the assortment and in the soul of the brand. In any case, don’t anticipate that this watch should look little. Once more, with the (nearly) nonattendance of bezel, the watch looks bigger than on paper – this is anyway an enhanced visualization, as on my fairly little wrist, the Nomos Lambda 39mm felt completely suitable (the drags were not bigger than my wrist).
Dial and hands
The dial is wonderful. First comes the warm combination between the 18k rose gold case and the velvet black dial. On the off chance that you focus, you’ll saw its delicate surface and its warm tone, that can, in specific conditions, seem, by all accounts, to be practically earthy colored or aubergine. At that point you have those 4 amazingly meager and long hands, diminished to their most straightforward structure: straight stick. Some may anticipate a helpless neatness, which is truth be told not the situation. Because of the great differentiation, the Nomos Lambda is helpful consistently. The 3 pieces of the dial are all around dispatched and time is not difficult to take a nap. The dial additionally feels very even, first in view of the balance of the signs and of the engravings, yet additionally in light of the fact that all the tracks and lists are coordinating with the hands style, which means straightforward, straight and moderate. The general look is perfect, fresh and genuinely elegant.
Apart from the hours and minutes, the primary sign of the dial is the huge force save marker situated at 12 – that goes as long as 84 hours/3.5 days when completely twisted. Once more, the track and the numerals are extremely slender – which allows us to value the quality and the accuracy of the printing. A small second pointer traditionally sits at 6 – and once more, it’s simply a basic sub-dial with 12 indexes.
The fundamental contrast with the 42mm is in the extents. The space between the hands is the equivalent (essentially on the grounds that the 2 releases share a similar development), implying that it’s simply an issue of “compression” of the sub-dials. Truth be told, the little second auxiliary dial doesn’t change and keeps a similar breadth (and in this way the hand keeps a similar length) however it is currently nearer from the line of the dial. What truly changes is the width of the force save pointer, which is currently somewhat more modest – thus does the connected hand. Fortunately, this doesn’t lead to a dial that feels tight or overcrowded. The 39mm release of the Nomos Lambda safeguards the credits of the 42mm, to be specific an enormous, elevated, amazingly clean dial. One close to another, it will be hard to see the distinction between the two.
We knew Nomos for having fascinating developments however not for having the option to have this sort of very good quality types. This watch and its development are making an evident connection among Nomos and the German school of Watchmaking – which we normally lessen to A. Lange & Sohne and Glashutte Original. With the correct measurement of individual understanding and a smidgen of unusualness, Nomos brings a genuine German development, with all the customary credits we’re used to: 3/4 plate, screwed gold chatons with blued screws, slender ribbings, screwed adjusted and engraved cockerel bridge. This development is, unquestionably, essential for the Saxonian custom .
However, as said, there’s some close to home understanding and some controlled eccentricity (come on, we’re discussing a German production) that can be found in a few subtleties. To begin with, the primary plate is highly curved, which changes from the severe extensions of a Lange 1 , a Moritz Grossmann or a Glashutte Original . At that point, this 3/4 plate is incompletely opened to uncover the wrench wheel. The Glashutte ribbings are likewise extraordinary, with a radiant design that begins from the center of the fastener wheel. At last, the etching on the cockerel connect is more current and varies from the old style flower subject utilized in German watchmaking. It is engraved with “Mit Liebe gefertigt in Glashütte” that can be deciphered as “lovingly created in Glashütte”.
Together with the visual magnificence of this development, we’ve likewise been dazzled by the completing and the subtleties applied by Nomos (do keep in mind the 12k cost of this watch… And it’s in gold). We have round graining on the principle plate, a perfectly cleaned swan-neck controller, the hand-engraved cockerel connect, a screwed balance wheel or small, cleaned and thermally blued fastens to hold place the strong gold chatons. Traditional yet beautiful are the cleaned inclined points applied on the 3/4 plate. The calibre DUW 1001 is truly charming to the eye, in any event, for specialists – another joy comes from the size of this development that appropriately fills the case.
Technically, it features twin origin barrels that guarantee a 84 hour power save, a swan neck fine change and 29 gems (remembering 6 for gold chatons, which follows the stuff train). While the 3/4 development ought to guarantee a decent dependability (German developments with this engineering are known to be thick however strong), the 3.5 days power hold will be useful consistently. In the event that you see the Nomos Lambda 39mm as your business watch, you can leave in the crate on Friday night and take it back on Monday morning and it will in any case be running.
First, this survey of the 39mm release put aside an uncertainty I had concerning the dial, that I expected to be packed. The magnificence of the 42mm additionally comes from its flying, opened and clean dial, something that I nearly find back here on account of the 39mm version (It is without a doubt a smidgen more swarmed however never stunning). The inclination on the wrist is in any case, for my little wrist, exceptionally better. I generally will in general zero in on the requirement for a dress watch to keep a sensible distance across, and for me, 42mm is excessively, paying little heed to the wearer. This 39mm Nomos Lambda may lose a touch of the aeronautical soul of the 42mm however on the opposite side, it gains in polish once on the wrist – and that’s probably the most important.
The black/earthy colored dial is a decent expansion, as the brand for the most part plays with cold colors (white dials, silvered cases, blued hands). It gives the extra-warmness needed on account of a formal (however not very formal) rich watch.
As for the nature of the subtleties and the completing (both for the case, the dial, the hands or the development), we were dazzled and we are as yet intrigued. The development is incredibly executed and imagined and it is wonderful to utilize (smooth twisting, long force hold). Since we put these characteristics side to favor the cost (11.800 Euros with taxes), we can say we’re before a very decent arrangement. Taking into account that the reputation of the brand is as yet restricted (compraed to large brands like Rolex, GP or JLC), Nomos has the smart thought to value this Nomos Lambda 39mm just underneath 12k – when the competition, with developments that are possibly not from a similar level, generally is nearer to 15k. Indeed, surmise you’ve comprehend that we profoundly delighted in this watch and that we recommend it. www.nomos-glashuette.com .