I’ve noticed, its not really the ‘big names’ that get a collector’s juices streaming. It frequently turns out to be the more abnormal, specialty creations. I get it come down to the longing to claim an interesting piece of craftsmanship. This is absolutely the situation with our Editor in Chief Frank Geelen. Last time we plunked down to examine his collection we covered his beautiful Sarpaneve Korona K1 (one of ten at any point made) here . On this event it is his HAUTLENCE HL Ti. There are a few watches that have a superb capacity of sticking in your brain. I will positively always remember the first time I looked at a creation from HAUTLENCE. One thing is without a doubt, when you see a HAUTLENCE on the wrist, you know it’s a HAUTLENCE! Since 2004, the assembling have been creating fascinating timepieces that consolidate both intense case plans and actually progressed developments. The name (for those of you who were unconscious – as I was!) is a re-arranged word of the canton of Neuchâtel in recognition for the support of watchmaking. In 2012, HAUTLENCE welcomed Georges-Henri Meylan onto the group and with brand Co-Founder Guillaume Tetu and are driving the business advances. In this meeting we cover how Frank went over the brand, what his #1 element of the watch is and the three words he would use to portray it!
How did you come to possess the Hautlence?
I had seen photographs on a discussion, and read about another and marvelous timepiece from Hautlence that was going to be dispatched. I was at that point wanting to go to Switzerland for seven days, and I had the chance of visiting various Indy watch brands. It was surely seven days of horological high-lights! I had the opportunity to meet with Kari Voutilainen, Stephen Forsey, Thomas Prescher, the people of De Bethune, URWERK, MCT, Peter Speake-Marin and Hautlence. It showed me an entirely opposite side of the universe of watchmaking than I hadn’t been utilized to, for the most part being in contact with one or the other PR or marketing groups from the major brands.
When I met Guillaume Tetu, the CEO of Hautlence, he was wearing a model of the HL Ti and I can still recollect that my attention was continually attracted to his wrist. I couldn’t help seeing that watch and being totally mesmerised – mind you, this was the first time I had seen a Hautlence timepiece ‘in the metal’. The dial, the best approach to demonstrate time, the TV-screen shape case, and (what I later saw) the beautifully completed development. After a long and loosening up lunch, Guillaume showed me the different manufacturing locations. I had the opportunity to attempt the HL Ti model and see the awesome HL2 that was going to be dispatched. It was all in all an experience!
After seeing that model HL Ti on Guillaume’s wrist, and giving it a shot my own wrist, I was sold… I suppose you can say it was unexplainable adoration. The cost was, well…, ‘slightly’ over my spending plan, so I longed for the watch and was persuaded it stay with dreaming and could never become part of my collection.
A few years passed, Monochrome had advanced and I was going to stop my ‘normal’ work, to do Monochrome full-time. Up until 2012 I ran Monochrome in my extra time (during morning meals, mid-day breaks, nights, ends of the week and my all vacations were spend at Baselworld, the SIHH and a periodic production visit). The income from Monochrome had gradually expanded and I still had my compensation from my ordinary work. So this was the moment to get myself a fantasy watch, since I knew, when I quit my customary work (I was strategy consultant at the service of transport), the ‘lifeline’ of a normal check would be gone. This was the second to make that one final ‘crazy’ buy. Since the Hautlence HL Ti was still on top of my list of things to get, I reached the brand lastly got my dream watch during Baselworld 2013.
What stood apart for you at Hautlence as a brand?
On first look I quickly had a weakness for the TV-screen case. It considers more space on the dial, and in this way has sufficient space for complications or novel approaches to demonstrate time, while it stays respectable in size on the wrist. This watch is surely not huge or massive and wears truly comfortable! The case shape was unquestionably something that I quickly liked.
Something that can’t be administered is the way that Hautlence shows the time, with a hopping hour indication and a retrograde moment hand, controller style meaning not on one pivot. I do comprehend that not every person is quickly attracted to such a piece, anyway I thought that it was incredibly, charming. I continued waiting for the moment hand to reach “60” and see it bob back to nothing and simultaneously see the hour plate take a leap toward the following hour. Each time that happened was a little horological feast for me.
These two key highlights quickly stuck out, and, as far as I might be concerned, still address the brand’s most notable highlights. That being said, even the terrific HL2 and the (similarly staggering) new Vortex both element a similar method to demonstrate time, by methods for a hopping hour and retrograde minutes. Furthermore, these pieces likewise don’t wear a ‘normal’ round case either!
I additionally need to say that being in contact with a brand, particularly with a little brand like Hautlence, the relation with individuals from the brand is significant. Meeting Guillaume Tetu, examining the watch business, his own image, different brands and watchmaking as a rule, has shown me a touch of what his identity is, and I should concede that being in close to home contact with a brand assists with appreciating it considerably more. Hautlence has an owner’s club, and being a part takes into account some extra’s that simply add to the entire experience.
The HL Ti has a beautifully worked dial, how is the legibility?
It is actually excellent! Truly, I do comprehend that numerous individuals wonder about this. Hopping hours, or if nothing else a plate that hops 30 degrees consistently, to uncover the following hour. A retrograde hand to demonstrate the minutes, which is done on a 120 degree curve. All indications are everywhere on the watch’ face, so that sounds troublesome. Also, honestly, on first look it is troublesome. It took me perhaps an hour to become acclimated to it and now I read the time in a flicker of a second. However I will in general look a couple of times, essentially in light of the fact that I love seeing that dial.
In the interim I’ve worn a lot more watches with an alternate time indication (hello, we even devoted an entire section to such watches , here on Monochrome) and a large portion of are very simple to become acclimated to. It ought to be intuitively. Once I got myself a Glycine Airman, which is a 24-hour watch. It has ‘normal’ midway placed hands, anyway the hour hand just makes one revolution at regular intervals. That was something I just couldn’t get utilized to.
It has a fascinating case shape, would you be able to disclose to us how its made and how it feels on the wrist?
It feels incredible, and isn’t excessively huge or massive. The case is made in titanium and that’s light. It is likewise very scratch safe, so even in spite of that it has been my day by day mixer for over a year, it still looks like nearly new.
For those uninformed – it’s a shocking development and complex, would you be able to advise us more?
The instruments that take the hour plate leap, and the retrograde moment hand play out its hourly development, is created and fabricated in-house by Hautlence. The premise, being the fountainhead barrel, gear train and escapement, are from an ETA/Peseux 7001. This super slender physically twisted development was first dispatched in 1972 by Peseux, which was subsequently purchased by ETA, and is a strong and demonstrated development that conveys 44 hours of force hold. Loads of extraordinary watchmaking legacy here. An interesting certainty is that this equivalent base development is likewise utilized for the main URWERK timepieces.
On top of these strong fundaments is a component for the retrograde moment hand, and the Hautlence connecting pole framework. At the point when the retrograde hand comes to “60” it hops back, and the energy of that bounce will be utilized to allow the hour to plate turn 30 degrees to uncover the following hour. All together 206 individual component convey 40 hours of force hold, which is 4 hours less that a fundamental ETA 7001; this is partially in light of the fact that Hautlence needs to have the option to ensure the real force save, and moving the retrograde framework devours more energy than standard hands.
The completing is completely done by hand: hand-chamfered spans with Côtes de Genève striping, pèrlage (roundabout graining) on the fundamental plate, a portion of the plates are embellished with straight brushing, and the connecting pole framework highlights both hand-chamfered points and straight brushed surfaces. Furthermore, that’s not all, the dial is additionally a work of art!
The ruthenium dial includes a honeycomb motif (Hautlence was the principal watch brand to make such a dial, which would now be able to be seen on different brands too) and a hand-applied HAUTLENCE logo. The hours, minutes and seconds spines are open-worked and rhodium-plated, and the hour circle includes a cloudy sapphire. All together the watch is a gala for the eyes! It still gives me a tremendous measure of delight each time I check the time.
An region I battle with as an authority is considering how the esthetic/plan of a watch may ‘fit into’ my collection, do you share my concerns?
Hahaha, unquestionably I do get that, anyway I quite considered that to be an issue. For me it was ‘love from the start sight’ and that was the solitary factor that was of any significance to me. I’m not ‘building’ a collection of, for example, just pilot’s watches or diver’s watches or dress watches. I get as much satisfaction and joy from my Hautlence as I get from my 34mm round white gold Patek Calatrava from 1960 .
The Hautlence should pull in spectators, what do individuals get some information about the watch?
That truly relies upon how encountered that individual is with watches. Entertaining enough when I just got it, we headed to Gruyere for a pleasant day, and during lunch this dazzling young woman, who was sitting at the table close to us, out of nowhere said that she cherished the vibes of my watch. She had no clue about what it was, or how to peruse the time on it, or if it’s a costly watch. She simply adored the vibes of the watch. Individuals with more “watch experience” frequently ask how the time is demonstrated, and they’re intrigued to hear how perusing time consistently really is. The Hautlence HL draws in some attention, and questions and comments are somewhat divergent.
When it comes to an incentive for cash, where is the Hautlence?
Value for cash can be clarified severally. There’s obviously the resale esteem and there’s the factor of how much work or ‘unique content’ you purchase for your money. When I purchase a watch, I don’t consider resale esteem, and my decision and choice is entirely founded on enthusiasm. Since I believe that watches ought to be worn, and not just kept in a protected, I pick watches that I love to wear. So the factor ‘resale value’ isn’t actually a factor that I consider. The other factor – what you get for the cash – is one that I take intense. Also, that’s a factor where Hautlence scores very high!
The Hautlence HL Ti is very exceptional to begin with. I surmise that 99.9% of the watches out there have a round case and the Hautlence has a purported TV-screen case. The best approach to demonstrate the time is one of a kind and the company has created, planned and fabricated the mechanics for this, which means these are generally custom parts, explicitly made for the Hautlence HL arrangement. The nature of really everything in this watch is very acceptable, and taking a gander at the completed scaffolds consistently welcomes a grin on my face.
In your assessment will it be a plan we appreciate in years to come?
I feel that something besides a round watch with focal set hands won’t ever become the mass’s top choice. Let’s be genuine about this, insane watches with a novel time indication like my Hautlence HL, yet in addition like HYT, MB&F and URWERK are offering, will positively be appreciated for the one of a kind highlights, trying plan and strength. Its plan isn’t normally something from a particular period, and I believe it to be workmanship, present day time-telling craftsmanship that is. Like HYT, MB&F and URWERK (and a few others obviously!) these sort of time-telling craftsmanship for on the wrist, will be respected and appreciated and are not prone to become obsolete like watches from style brands.
Does it get a lot of wrist time?
The first year it got more than 90% of my wrist time, so you can unquestionably say that it was my every day mixer. In the previous years I’ve been wearing a great deal of survey watches, so my Hautlence got less wrist time. Furthermore, since my child was brought into the world a year ago, I’ve very worn my Tudor Black Bay in light of the fact that it’s more qualified for a daddy’s life (washing hands a gazillion times a day, evolving diapers, putting him in shower, my child snatching that sparkly thing on my wrist, and so forth) Presently my child is a little more than a year, I’m starting to wear the Hautlence more since day by day chances have continuously diminished. In the 2.5 years that I’ve own this watch I take a ton of wrist shots and shared them on Instagram (see underneath for another collection of Instagram photos).
What is your #1 component of the watch?
The dial, or (I realize this is cheating) all that is going on the dial. I love it. How the light changes the vibes of the watch and there’s consistently another point that simply looks superb.
One last question…. What three words would you use to portray your HL Ti?
Horological Wrist Art. I can go on about this, in light of the fact that it’s really a factor that I appreciate such a huge amount about Hautlence and a few different brands that I mentioned previously. It backs away from the traditional wrist watch, both fit as a fiddle just as in the manner it tells the time. However it is unequivocally founded on the fundaments of watchmaking that have been spread out in the past centuries.