Recently, we’ve been dazzled by Vacheron-Constantin. Not that the Geneva-based assembling isn’t utilized to make intriguing watches (truly, we’re a long way from that), yet the most recent assortment that they appeared during SIHH 2015 was both outwardly and in fact shocking. We previously felt that exclusively by just seeing the press photographs of the whole assortment ( that you can see here ) but later significantly more thus, while having the lead release on the wrist, the Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph Caliber 3500 . It’s time currently to have a more intensive gander at the watch that is potentially the best compromise, the Vacheron-Constantin Harmony Chronograph Caliber 3300.
It’s not regularly that an old Maison like Vacheron-Constantin dispatches an altogether new assortment of watches. Until the 2015 Edition of the SIHH, Vacheron-Constantin was utilized to improve its old style assortments with new versions (like the energetic Overseas or the rich Patrimony ) or with explicit restricted releases (like the vintage-propelled Historique American 1921 ). Nonetheless, 2015 is a sort of unique year for the production, as commending its 260th commemoration, making it probably the most seasoned assembling – just Blancpain is more established as made in 1735 however with a non-ceaseless movement. What’s more, do recall that Patek Philippe is only 175 years of age. For the event, Vacheron-Constantin chose to hit solidly with watches that both regard the practices and that additionally bring an amazing horological content. This assortment is called Harmony and here are the few versions dispatched (that you can likewise find here ):
- the Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph Caliber 3500 , the leader of the assortment, a super thin programmed (with fringe rotor) split-second chronograph mono-pusher
- the Harmony Chronograph Tourbillon Caliber 3200 – as said in its name, it combines a manual twisting chronograph with a tourbillon regulator
- the Harmony Chronograph Caliber 3300 – unquestionably the most adjusted and reasonable release, with a fresh out of the box new in-house chronograph development and an exceptionally customary (however heavenly) architecture
- the Harmony Chronograph little size Calibre 1142 – the women version with the old Lemania-based chronograph movement
- the Harmony Dual Time Caliber 2460DT – the least difficult release of the assortment without chronograph yet with a subsequent time-region indication
The edition we chose to review all the more intently is the one that we accept to be the best compromise, the one that is the most adjusted, the one that shows the best advantage development savvy – not the most complicated without a doubt but rather the one that will answer modern and efficient difficulties. The Vacheron-Constantin Harmony Chronograph Caliber 3300 is directly in the center of the assortment, in the middle of the great yet blocked off Caliber 3500 and Caliber 3200 and the too basic Dual Time. In any case, principally, this watch follows the most recent pattern of the business that requires proper manufactures to have their own in-house customary physically twisted chronograph development. Patek did it in 2009 with the Calibre CH 29-535. Lange utilizes its own development in the Datograph since its introduction.
It was currently an ideal opportunity for Vacheron to have its in-house chronograph development, supplanting the Lemania-based development utilized for instance in the Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Paris Boutique . Subsequently, as decent as possible have been, having this new development puts it on a completely unique level. You need to remember how complicated, exorbitant, long and difficult the advancement of a chronograph development is (that’s why a few brands like Breguet or Audemars-Piguet are not utilizing in-house developments). This Caliber 3300 will unquestionably not exclusively be found in this 260-piece restricted version of the Harmony however it will most likely be utilized in the future, in a few different watches, as a base for the new standard physically twisted chronograph calibres.
The Vacheron-Constantin Caliber 3300
The story of the Caliber 3300 began in 2008 – indeed, 7 years… we advised you, building up a chronograph development is long and it’s not on the grounds that the Swiss are supposed to be moderate! A chronograph is unquestionably perhaps the most complicated structures conceivable, as various cog wheels, switches, brakes, grasps and wheels must be planned and gathered exactly. Then again, to remain in the race against other huge names of the business – like Patek, the verifiable competitor – Vacheron-Constantin needed to welcome its own development available. Not that the Nouvelle-Lemania based development was out of date, however for showcasing and commercial reasons, it is currently a validity contention to have an in-house chronograph movement.
At first sight, this Caliber 3300 is about practices and feels like known. Its design is in reality suggestive of a few other physically twisted chronograph developments (and near the old Lemania-based one as well). In any case, it must be said: a chronograph won’t be completely reexamined! Its engineering is with the end goal that numerous chronograph developments have a similar generally look (investigate a Minerva or a Patek CH 29-235 ). Then again, this Caliber 3300 is likewise novel severally. Notwithstanding its conventional design, it’s an altogether new development. It’s likewise one of only a handful few mono-pusher chronographs accessible on the marker. At long last, it includes a few specialized delicacies:
- As said, it’s a mono-pusher. The catch to impel the chronograph (start, pause and reset) is exquisitely embedded in the crown at 6. This engineering is very complicated and requires complex levers.
- Of course, it includes a segment wheel (that is embellished with the Maltese Cross, seal of the production) and a lateral coupling grip. This permits a smooth vibe of the pusher and a quick beginning of the chronograph second hand (without the average jerk before beginning to run of the cam-worked chronographs). The chronograph was subsequently altogether updated to diminish and even wipe out this minuscule jump.
- A ‘all or nothing’ framework when pushing the chronograph button. On conventional developments, the system is in some cases actuated however doesn’t really begin if the pusher isn’t squeezed immovably enough. Here, the gears can’t be set into movement without really beginning the instrument (improving the sturdiness of the whole chronograph mechanism).
- A chronograph system with two pounds rather than one for both the subsequent counter and the moment counter. This aims enhancing the exactness of the operational sequences.
- A cone-molded stuff between the winding pinion and the crown wheel to accomplish a smooth winding.
- Extremely precise wheel profiles (because of present day creation measures). The clearance between the cog wheels is kept to the base gratitude to teeth isolated by a simple 0.03 mm.
Now in the event that we move to the elements of this development, we’re before an exceptionally old style recommendation. It’s a physically twisted type, with a bi-compax format. It includes a little second sub-dial at 9 and a 45min counter at 3 (instead of the typical 30min counter). One lament concerning this moment counter: the hand is a hauling one and not a bouncing one – which makes the perusing a smidgen more complicated. It’s astonishing that Vacheron-Constantin accompanied such an element. The Caliber 3300 additionally includes a force save pointer situated at 6 – that will give the wearer an outline of the excess measure of energy accessible, realizing that the Vacheron-Constantin Harmony Chronograph flaunts a comfortable 65 hours power reserve.
Visually, this type is a blowout for the eyes. As needed by the Hallmark of Geneva (that is stepped on the sledge connect), finish is up to extremely exclusive requirements. All the parts are ended by hand with cleaned sloped points on the scaffolds and chronograph switches, Geneva Stripes on the extensions, straight graining on the steel parts, cleaned screw-heads and inclined screw-spaces, chamfered wheel-spokes and round graining on the whole fundamental plate (both on the development and dial side). A particular component of this Vacheron-Constantin Harmony Chronograph Caliber 3300 is the botanical etching applied on the chicken extension (motivated by the arabesques that embellished the world’s most established pocket watch having a place with the Maison and endorsed by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755). This component is remarkable to the watches made for the 260th commemoration and will most likely not be utilized in the future standard watches that will incorporate this development. Its execution is extremely spotless and nitty gritty and brings a pleasant extravagance contact to the movement. Finally, you can likewise expect this calibre to be exact (the Hallmark of Geneva requires the watches to pass the COSC certification).
The Vacheron-Constantin Harmony Chronograph
Enough of the specialized insights… This development is cased in a watch – and an extremely rich and pleasantly planned one. To begin with, its dial reflects (same as the development) an extraordinary regard to customs. This Harmony assortment is enlivened by a vintage doctor’s monopusher chronograph made by the Manufacture in 1928 (see here ). This antique version accompanied a bi-compax design and a pulsometric scale, two highlights that we find back in the Harmony – see the scale around the dial with ‘graduated for 30 pulsations’. The hands are likewise utilizing a vintage approach with a spade shape (additionally suggestive from the 1928 doctor’s watch). All the printings (counting the huge blue numerals) are additionally customary and the general render is exquisite, attentive and luxurious.
Again, as its 1928 wellspring of motivation, the Vacheron-Constantin Harmony Chronograph includes a pad formed case (here made of 18k rose gold). The carries are completely coordinated in the casebands without any discontinuance, making a smooth profile yet in addition a somewhat cumbersome shape. Taking into account that the watch measures 42 mm x 52 mm, 12.81 mm, a touch of slimness (or a partition between the case and the carries) would have been charming, all together to lighten the case. Nonetheless, the Harmony stays a rich and tasteful chronograph that will be entirely usable with dressy clothing types – an inclination that the monopusher developments emphasizes.
Overall, this Vacheron-Constantin Harmony Chronograph Caliber 3300 is a watch that is now fascinating all alone. The development and finish are superb and sensitive and the look is exquisite and tasteful – regardless of whether somewhat cumbersome for us. This would have been a pleasant curiosity alone yet we need to consider the presentation of the new manufacture movement that hampers the brand in the game. Vacheron is presently furnished to confront different heavyweights of the business with a development that is completely completed, exceptionally charming to take a gander at and actually fascinating. The regard to the old customs of watchmaking is an or more for us and we’d love to see this Caliber 3300 in future assortments (in non-restricted versions and with watches evaluated all the more sensibly). The Vacheron-Constantin Harmony Chronograph is priced at 74.300 Euros. More on Vacheron-Constantin.com and on the brand’s own discussion, the Hour Lounge .